Amazing Giulianova
Religious spirit and art
Brimming with enthusiasm, they start with a visit to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Splendor.
Religious devotion holds that on April 22, 1557, a farmer named Bertolino was struck by a blinding light while resting under an olive tree on a hill.
At the center of that brilliance appeared the Virgin, smiling. She charged him with the task of conveying to the community her will to have a Sanctuary erected in that place.
The man immediately went to the Dukes of Acquaviva, the lords of the time, who did not believe him, indeed, they accused him of being a braggart and had him beaten.
To save himself from the beatings, Bertolino implored, in his heart, the help of the Immaculate; instantly, the limbs of the thugs who were beating him became paralyzed.
Faced with such an inexplicable event, the Dukes were convinced of the intervention of a supernatural force.
The Sanctuary was built. In the meantime, a spring of water began to flow there, which the faithful, to this day, consider to be miraculous.
Currently, the sacred building is guarded by Cappuccini monks and is visited by thousands of pilgrims from all over Italy yearly.
Inside, it is possible to admire the statue of the Madonna of Splendor, and outside, carved under a colonnade, the beautiful devotional mosaics that illustrate the life of Jesus and the main parables.
Particularly evocative is the Monumental Via Crucis, represented by bronze groups made by the sculptor Ubaldo Ferretti.
A Cathedral unique
in its kind
After visiting the church and admiring the spectacular landscape, Maddalena and Melania continue towards the historic center, walking along Via dello Splendore, dotted with Art Nouveau villas.
In the early twentieth century, this street, as well as the promenade and other districts of the city, were embellished with superb residential buildings, which can still be admired today.
As they walk, they reach the heart of Giulianova.
The historic center seems like a movie set where the two girls, captivated by the charm of centuries-old homes, fantasize about going back in time, imagining the appearance of a noble knight on horseback or a commoner with a basin on her head.
Thinking of visiting it soon, they turn their gaze to the birthplace of the musician and composer Gaetano Braga, a contemporary and friend of Verdi; then the ancient Corso Garibaldi leads them to the majestic Dome of San Flaviano, dedicated to the city’s patron saint.
It is the first example of Renaissance architecture with an octagonal base on the Abruzzo coast, designed by the Tuscan architect Giorgio Martini. It houses the remains of the Holy Patriarch of Constantinople, which landed on the coast of Giulianova in the year 1004, possibly due to a shipwreck of the vessel that was transporting them to Ravenna.
Due to its soaring height, it was an important point of reference for the surrounding area, even for fishermen, so much so that it is thought that the original cladding was made of blue glazed tiles, with a deliberately reflective effect, visible even from far away.
Beneath the Church is the crypt, whose ceiling is an engineering masterpiece, originally used for worship and later for the custody of the Saint’s relics.
Beside the building expands Piazza Buozzi, conceived as the scenario in which the greatness of the Acquaviva dynasty was to manifest itself.
As Italy was being
Unified
A few hundred meters further, the young ladies make a stop at Piazza Belvedere, where the bronze statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, crafted by the Giulianova sculptor Raffaello Pagliaccetti, triumphs. It was erected by the people of Giulianova in honor of the King’s visit, during his journey to Teano for the historic meeting with Garibaldi.
From here, they enjoy a magnificent view of the coast, which Maddalena and Melania observe, frame by frame, through binoculars.
Towards the port
The girls decide to continue their walk towards the Lido, descending the ancient and picturesque Salita Monte Grappa.
They return to Don Antonio, to take their bicycles for riding on the seafront.
The adventure restarts after involving Antonio, another family representative, known for his passion for two-wheeled excursions.
Propelled by the sea breeze, our cyclists glide along the picturesque cycle path facing the sea; the golden beach and the shimmering Adriatic flow like an old film beneath their eyes.
Lost between sky and sea, the young people chat about local stories and the excellent food which, in this land, takes a dominant role in the kaleidoscope of emotions.
Joking and laughing, they compete over who has frequented the most delicious restaurant in Giulianova and tasted the most appetizing specialty; but on the supremacy of the typical brodetto di pesce, “fish stew”.
The life of the port, authentic and noisy, is animated by the engines of boats, the dialect chatter of fishermen, and the imaginative names of trawlers and clam boats.
At the tourist dock, the pleasure boats fend off dreams never unveiled in the imagination of our protagonists.
I caliscendi
The old pier plays its poker of aces, showcasing traditional evidence of the local culture.
Along the wall, during the walk, hundreds of hand-decorated majolica tiles from the art school of Castelli (TE) are embedded.
A bit above, anchored on the rocks, adorned with sea poems, the so-called “caliscendi” dominate, the younger siblings of the more famous trabocchi.
And it is also thanks to their characteristic presence that the South Pier is a destination for bike rides and meetings with friends.
Right in these wooden houses, in summer, an eno gastronomic festival called “Calistelle” takes place, during which delicious appetizers are served.
The seas's Gold
Maddalena, Melania, and Antonio’s mouths water at the memory of their last participation in one of these occasional sea street foods, just last week.
Indeed, they had enjoyed a tasting of fried anchovies, octopus and potato salad, and squid tagliatelle.
Maybe… it could be… we don’t know… they had also celebrated a lot of toasts with Trebbiano, Cerasuolo, and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo!
They continued to sip from the happy glasses: “Cheers to the beautiful Giulianova, health to the hardworking fishermen, and the fantastic chef,” and the wine gurgled in their throats like a fresh stream from the Gran Sasso.
To make a long story short they returned the bicycle by hand to Don Antonio.
Four kilometers on foot were a blessing for digestion! What a fantastic experience!
The sea at sunset
Meanwhile, the fiery sunset embraces the skyline of Giulianova Alta, where the dome of San Flaviano stands tall.
With flaming rays, the sun etches pictorial scenes on the horizon.
A suspicion arises spontaneously, towards the romantic inflamed sky and the yellow-orange water mirror: “Master Michele Cascella, is it perhaps you, painting the sky and the sea?”
